咖啡的贏家 5 六月, 2008

誰是咖啡的贏家？

看到這樣的標題或許開始有些沉重與嚴肅是吧。
現在咖啡這個行業也可以稱為事業正在蓬勃發展呢！火熱延續中。
但是，
誰會是贏家呢？
消費者當然是贏家；烘焙商也是贏家之一囉；種植的農家莊園就是農夫啦、也會是贏家，並成為直接受益者。
我們要如何做或思考的是，多贏的情形怎樣會出現。
那麼，公平交易是最直接的方式。還有呢？就是能以公平方式交易的性質啊！
這個的方式就較具挑戰了。
前者(公平交易)是有一個這樣的組織推動中，而且呢，成效有增長中。
後者(公平方式交易)可以稱為直接的B TO B 農家莊園直接與小型烘焙商貿易商或者特定的店家約定價格並提供穩定品質的咖啡豆。
兩者的好處都是沒有中間盤商的抽成與價格哄抬，農家是可以有較高利潤的。
然而，後者要依賴的就是更高品質或獨特性可能是品種，可能是栽種方式。可以得到較高又穩定的價格並且是值得擁有的。
那麼作物與農家、莊園主的魅力就缺一不可囉！
先談到作物本身；
品 種是最會被先考慮到的。咖啡跟蝴蝶蘭一樣，作物的原生品種由於環境資源過度開發的情況下大多不易尋獲。或者因為種植的環境氣候的變數，人為的考量像是要能 夠量產因為是經濟作物嘛！所以改良品種或者大量使用農藥來改變生態和作物本身的情況變多了，目的就是更快速更高產量來獲利。該有的遮陽樹種消失了，環境被 灑上農藥，鳥類不再棲息，大量樹種消失，引發雨林區的作物失衡，氣候也隨之影響的這些變動等等。這樣的改變帶來的傷害卻是難以估計，要復育就得花更長的時 間了，而且需要等待。
咖啡還有一個特殊的情況，在中南美洲，若長期收成不佳，影響生活的存續問題，我的下一步在哪裡？成為咖啡農戶們心中最大的痛 處。然後在經濟壓力及環境的驅使如黑幫勢力介入，大多改為種植毒品原料，非關農戶自願與否，因為它會是經濟考量，養家糊口的來源。聽來十分悲情與淒苦，卻 是存在的事實。
咖啡的消費者會提出這樣的問題；是不是原生品種才好喝？
這不是絕對是相對的。哈！哈！咖啡的相對論。(存在＊好喝的變數＊)
只因為原生品種或近原生品種擁有最自然並且是最純淨的芳香。
舉個例：衣索比亞的耶加雪菲就是。如何區分呢？那就真的是說來話長了。簡單說：就是喝喝看。因為每個人都是最好的評鑑師。
談到農家、莊園主的魅力。哇！我認為最有趣跟豐富題材的部份就在這裡。真的是有說不完的故事呢。有些人會說到 La Minita 莊園，我要說的呢就是Daterra。
先不討論Daterra擁有多少認證。至少這家咖啡莊園是以咖啡為志業的。
有 Vision 願景 Mission 使命 Value 價值 Commitment 承諾
很猛吧！ 他有一個理想的願景：對咖啡充滿激情與動能讓他們具有使命感的前進每一步都正在記錄，走過的軌跡都將成為咖啡的蛻變的新頁。創造自我的價值體現在咖啡上，讓擁有Daterra 咖啡的消費者是榮耀的，是支持並明白他們的努力。
說到承諾，他是如此說的，很感動，與大家分享：
Commitment To produce and deliver the best green Arabica Coffee and the best espresso blends.
承諾 致力生產與傳遞阿拉比卡種咖啡生豆與極佳的義式濃縮咖啡配方
有了這樣努力與堅持，好咖啡才能更多，就能有更多人享用，他們就更有能力去擁抱他們的理想並持續前進。
好期待與這樣的理想來場對話。這樣的咖啡我有幸擁有，歡迎大家來分享。
我很幸運在這個行業工作， 我是以一個咖啡工作者為榮的，我的成就來自於更多人喜歡咖啡，並且愛上他。嘿！ 當然不宜過量喔！
為什麼說我們是贏的呢？在扮演著採購者與烘焙工作者的同時，我也是個消費者啊！
為什麼如此說呢？我也喝咖啡的嘛！而且到處去的喔。
採購時，我們總是盡力尋找好品種的咖啡以原生品種或近原生品種為採購首選。然而這樣的莊園並不多見，但是每當完成交易就能幫助到農家可以改善他們的生活，這樣的喜悅是難以形容的。總是會感到開心。
我們選擇透過公平方式交易咖啡豆或透過公平交易組織的資訊，為主要採購咖啡的參考依據。
對於合作的契約莊園，我們嚴格把關以對消費者負責。我們會持續追蹤栽種到收成的過程，而農家莊園主也樂意將整個栽種與製程透明化並努力透過檢驗取得認證。這樣的互動與彼此支持是雙贏的，我們雙方重視的是個承諾：就是對原素材的品質是高要求的。
這 樣一來免除了擔心害怕品質不理想的生豆來源，讓我們專注於烘焙工作，創造設計出口感、香氣、甜度極佳的咖啡，透過嫻熟與高要求的沖煮技術呈現咖啡的樣貌。 讓咖啡在視覺、嗅覺、味覺上的表現皆屬上乘並令人滿意。身為一個消費者的我，對咖啡的來源出處有更清楚明白的資訊是很重要的。因為我喜歡知道它是怎樣的狀 況哪裡來的囉！現在種植稻米的農家也開始學習做紀錄，這些努力的背後除了讓消費者買的放心吃的安心之外，也可以幫助到農家檢視過程找到可以改進與進步的空 間。所以我們也是如此學習的。
當我花錢喝一杯咖啡的同時，我是挑剔的嚴謹的，我買到的不只有我本身的滿足而已，如果可以對整個咖啡事業每一環節的工作者表示支持，那我將樂於做這樣的。讓每杯咖啡都可以成為經典不會只是傳說。美味是可以傳遞傳承不會只存在聽說哪裡有而已。
所以，我說，每個人都會是贏家。喝咖啡的樂趣就從這裡開始。
下次有人問你說:這杯咖啡如何? 你可以驕傲的回答: 這不是只有好喝而已; 是我有貢獻有付出的咖啡啊.

Ceres Coffee Club 0711專屬豆單 25 十月, 2007

NOTE：本月份是很精采的一個月份，我們已經開始介紹給大家的咖啡莊園今年都豐收而且在世界咖啡評析當中巴拿馬獲得了第1名與瓜地馬拉第2名

瓜地馬拉這次介紹的是薇薇特南果產區也請大家試試。這是有別於我們常喝到的安提瓜產區。

Geisha ，這個風雲品種，獲獎無數，備受注目。傳奇故事也多，我們會陸續與大家討論請期待無敵門系列文章。

哥倫比亞我常形容像是個長者。穩重優雅。這個產區的Typica種 會讓我期待。

一定不能錯過。

巴拿馬 Esmeralda Special

• 莊園：HACIENDA LA ESMERALDA
• 品種：THE GEISHA
• 推薦：無敵門稱霸天下的品種與口感

1^st Place Specialty Coffee Association of America Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion (2007, 2006, 2005)
1^st Place “Best of Panama” (2007, 2006, 2005, 2004)
1^st Place Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality (2007, 2006, 2004)

烘焙豆價格：125g/700 200g/1100

500g生豆烘焙：2400

巴拿馬 Diamond Mountain

• 莊園: HACIENDA LA ESMERALDA
• 品種: Typica, Bourbon and Catuai
• 推薦:巴拿馬名門另一個驚豔的傑作。我們可以在這個系列中去接觸到偉大莊園的努力與嚴謹的精製過程所帶捱清新亮麗的味道
• 200g烘焙豆：390
• 500g生豆烘焙：700

瓜地馬拉 El Injerto

• 莊園：El Injerto
• 品種：Bourbon
• 推薦：瓜地馬拉薇薇特南果產區的百年莊園，無使用化學藥劑栽種，2007 美國精品咖啡協會舉辦的世界咖啡評析第二名
• 200g烘焙豆：300
• 500g生豆烘焙：600

哥倫比亞  Pineroas

• 莊園：Pineroas
• 品種：Typica
• 推薦：在哥倫比亞咖啡的原生品種已經很少見了。這是一個小農家，無使用化學藥劑栽種，優雅的氣味絲毫不輸給藍山咖啡。極力推薦。
• 200g烘焙豆：300
• 500g生豆烘焙：600

 

 

Kenya: Farmers Turn to Organic Coffee for Global Markets 22 十月, 2007

Solomon Mburu
Business Daily (Nairobi)

8 October 2007
Posted to the web 9 October 2007

Organic farming is gaining popularity in Central Kenya following reports that coffee beans produced through
the method fetch premium prices in the market.

Mr Bernard Gichobi, the production manager at the Coffee Board of Kenya, described demand for organic
produce as a niche market that coffee growers in Kenya can service to increase their incomes.

Organic produce comes from crops that are cultivated without fertilizers, pesticides and other soil additives,
has been fetching above-market prices as consumer activism rises in key European and American markets.

Mbumi Coffee Estate, a Nyeri based miller, is promoting production of organic coffee to take advantage of the
emerging market.

Ms Elizabeth Mbugua, the general manager of Mbumi Coffee Estate, told Business Daily farmers were only
awakening to the opportunities the method offers.

“Many people don’t know about organic coffee since no one talks about it," said Ms Mbugua.

Besides the popularity of its produce among environmentally conscious consumers, promoters of organic
coffee say it produces high yields and saves the farmer the pain of purchasing expensive inputs.

To show its commitment to this niche market, Mbumi Estate has converted its 300-acre farm into organic
production through a process that began three years ago.

The farm now uses farm manure instead of fertilizers and natural methods of pest control. The initiative go a
big boost last year when Kenyatta University joined in to conduct organic farming research at the farm.

To get premium prices for organic coffee, the miller has linked up with international buyers to promote its
products in the global market.

Currently, the International Marketing Organisation that certifies products for European, American and
Japanese markets, is in charge of certification for Mbumi’s products. “It has taken years to negotiate for
premiums and better prices," said Ms Mbugua.

Isaac Gichia, a marketer at Mbumi Coffee Estates, said the farm earns an extra $5 for every 50 kilogramme
bag above the market price. This, he says, is only because conversion to organic farming is still under way.
Fully organic coffee earns farmers up to $20 in premiums for every 50 kilogramme bag.

Before being accepted as organic, the coffee goes through vetting starting from the farm, the point of export
and at point of entry.

Samuel Ndung’u, the national market development officer at the Kenya Organic Agriculture Network, reckons
that certification of produce as organic enables farmers to join other certification platforms such as fair trade
and earn better premiums.

“Premiums depend on the product and ranges from 20 to 300 per cent of the market price," said Mr Ndung’u.
But despite the attractive premiums and the drive to popularise it, very little organic coffee is being produced
in Kenya yet.

Farmers say the high cost of acquiring certification is partly to blame. Auditing for organic certification alone
costs an average of Sh300,000, placing it beyond the reach of thousands of smallscale farmers.

Many farmers also fear initial losses and the expected drop in production when one stops using fertilizers and
pesticides.

“It is expensive to convert to organic farming since one can lose the whole crop in the first four years of
production," said Ms Mbugua.

After the period is over, production starts to pick and the quality improves dramatically, she explains.

Coffee is naturally resistant to diseases such as Coffee Berry Disease but has been made reliant on
pesticides by regular use, she said.

To cover the expected losses of conversion, Mr Ndung’u explained that one can register on a conversion
status and will be getting premiums that cushion them from expected losses.

Mr Gichobi said that the coffee board is finalising a policy framework that will guide such initiatives as the
organic drive and leave their development to growers and market needs.

CERES NOTE:

看起來似乎轉向的原因是為了價格可以高一些

但是 不容忽視的部份在於市場需求

所以發展 S.D.P 是值得的而且是重要的 

Specialty Coffee Association of America Reveals World’s Best Specialty Coffee

Panama’s Hacienda La Esmeralda Wins an Unprecedented Third Consecutive SCAA Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition

SCAA’s 19th Annual Conference & Exhibition

LONG BEACH, Calif.–(BUSINESS WIRE)–Panama coffee estate, Hacienda La Esmeralda, reached the highest level of coffee supremacy May 7 when it was recognized for having the world’s best specialty coffee for a record third consecutive year. The coffee producer set the mark by winning this year’s Specialty Coffee Association of America’s (SCAA) 2007 Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition in Long Beach, Calif. The coffee producer previously won the 2005 and 2006 Cupping Pavilions. The 2007 event took place at SCAA’s 19^th Annual Conference & Exhibition.

Hacienda La Esmeralda’s winning coffee–from the Jaramillo region of Boquete, Panama–was one of 104 of the finest coffees that participated in the three-day international competition.

2007 Cupping Pavilion Results:

1. Hacienda La Esmeralda, Panama

2. El Injerto, S.A., Guatemala

3. Delicafe S.A., Costa Rica

4. Jesus Mountain Coffee Company, Nicaragua

5. Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union, Ethiopia

6. Ka’u Farm & Ranch Company LLC, Hawaii

7. Carmen Estate, Panama

8. Cafe Importa, Colombia

9. Ka’u Farm & Ranch Company LLC, Hawaii

10. Volcafe Specialty Coffee, Ethiopia

11. C.I. Racafe & Cia S.C.A., Colombia

12. Cafe de El Salvador, El Salvador

More than 30 experienced judges selected the winning coffee by cupping, or thoroughly evaluating the scent and taste of each coffee sample. The judges specifically assessed six distinct attributes of the coffee samples, including: fragrance, aroma, taste, flavor, aftertaste and body.

About the SCAA

Celebrating its silver anniversary in 2007, the SCAA is the world’s largest coffee trade association. SCAA members are located in over 40 countries and represent every segment of the specialty coffee industry, from coffee growers to coffee roasters and retailers. The SCAA’s mission is to be the recognized authority on specialty coffee, providing a common forum for the development and promotion of coffee excellence and sustainability. The SCAA’s dedication to excellence in coffee is realized through the setting of quality standards for the industry; conducting research on coffee, equipment and perfection of craft; and providing education, training, resources and business services for members. The SCAA’s annual conference is held in a different U.S. city each year and is the coffee industry’s largest gathering and exhibition.

CERES NOTE:

很開心的前2名我們都有的

還有第7名 

可惜的是巴拿馬數量有限

我們是很幸運的

特別感謝支持S.D.P 計畫的朋友 18 十月, 2007

在此要感謝支持Ceres S.D.P 計畫的朋友

因為你們的支持 使的這個想法可以落實

我們能夠更專注於開發與提升品質的要求

與服務

謝謝你們

CERES COFFEE CLUB

哥斯大黎加 百年堅持 8 十月, 2007

Juan ・Ramon Alvarado 擁有50+ 英畝土地在哥斯大黎加的 中央山谷區裡。Alvarado 生產大約750 個袋子每年在他的農場Brumas del Zurqui 。2006 年, 農場贏取了第1 名的哥斯大黎加 ‘Crop of Gold’ 競賽, 儘管他的農場圍繞著異常的氣候。這小部分種植了近半Caturra 和Catuai 培養了在1350 年和1500 海拔米之間。Alvarado 使用Brix meter(附註)半水洗工法。他生產’honey coffee’ 保留原屬果肉的黏液包覆著咖啡豆。這黏液轉換成如糖和帶有酒精發酵, 被吸收入豆在乾燥過程期間創造更甜, 更飽滿的質感。Brumas del Zurqui 有巧克力糖漿和香草 榛果伴隨著微妙的檸檬味道。
這是一個簡單的介紹

故事是這樣展開的

高聳青翠和薄霧圍繞的哥斯大黎加的 中央山谷區的生長著世界最明亮並且多數複雜咖啡被種植。在這裡 Rodriquez Caraballo 家族發展它的咖啡耕種技術自1880 年開始著這一項產業。

2004 年,一個半世紀長的咖啡產業達到了最高點….發展新的Brumas del Zurqui Estate 咖啡計畫。正當咖啡價格下滑之時而這個結果也衝擊到農場開始對社會和生態改革的成長視為最重要的部份, Caraballo 家族集結了所有它的專門技術和創造這一獨特的咖啡的。

他們的優越技術處理和嚴密的監控收穫系統產生了一個奇蹟般地一致性和高質量的咖啡。
更加重要地, 順利發展之後的焦點在質量改革成功後給賦予新價值在這個咖啡社區; 重視提升經濟生活能力、環境保護和社會保險的原則。

Brumas del Zurqui Estate 咖啡是一個美妙地滑口細膩。您將由它的蜂蜜甜和閃耀的酸度驚奇, 如成熟夏天果子與清新的花卉氣完美搭配。這些美妙的因子正是幫助Brumas del Zurqui 獲獎作為哥斯大黎加最佳的咖啡 在2006 年。令人驚訝的技藝, 這個褒獎是對Caraballo 家族的堅苦工作和進步的最大激勵。

Brix METER 甜度計…咖啡的秘密

甜度計的運用:

The Brix meter. A hand-held device, with a prism at one end, and an eyepiece at the other. When just a few drops of sap or juice are placed on the prism and held up to the light, the light passing through the sap is refracted (bent) according to the composition of that sap.

The brix measurement can be read off the scale, showing levels of sugar, minerals, proteins and vitamines in the plant’s juices, commonly referred to as dissolved solids.

The brix meter provides more than just an indication of the nutritional value of the produce itself, it can be used to help monitor underlying problems in the soil in which the produce is grown.

Retired farmer, David von Pein, explains that brix readings provide an instant monitoring mechanism so that we can see what is going on in our soil.

“If we can identify what the soil is lacking in, we can implement management techniques to help restore the soil to health," said David.

“This in turn will have a flow-on effect to plants grown in that soil."

實例運用:咖啡篇

Alvarado uses BRIX meters which read sugar levels to judge berry ripeness during the harvest. He produces ‘honey coffee’ which is created by leaving an excess of mucilage surrounding the beans. This mucilage, composed of sugars and alcohols, is absorbed into the bean during the drying process creating a sweeter, heavier bodied cup. Brumas del Zurqui has notes of chocolate syrup and hazelnuts with a subtle lemon flavor.

這是描述運用甜度計來推估計算含糖量判斷咖啡於採收期將近的時果實的成熟度

它想要保留果肉的甜度在咖啡上 讓咖啡本身的甜度提升

而這個甜度是自然的風味

而附著在咖啡上的黏液稱之為" coffee honey"

在水洗去果肉的時候不將咖啡的果肉黏液清洗

然後去日曬

這樣保有了水洗精製過程的使咖啡外表很乾淨

也巧妙的運用了日曬的味道保存

使的咖啡有著水洗般的乾淨兼具日曬的甜美 果實香甜

一個成熟的味道

 

 

Utz 的改變 5 十月, 2007

From Utz Kapeh to UTZ CERTIFIED!

“Utz Kapeh”, meaning good coffee in a Maya language, has been the name of the global standard for socially and environmentally responsible coffee growing and sourcing. In a matter of 5 years Utz Kapeh became the greatest coffee certification program in the world.

We recently decided to update our name and logo to reflect our confidence that the day is approaching when responsible and traceable coffee will be the global standard. UTZ CERTIFIED in bold letters and the waving flag in the logo are deliberately chosen to symbolize this confidence.

There is no change in our program, no concessions from our mission; only an update in name and logo… So drinkers of responsible coffee; from now on look for this logo on the coffee that you’re buying!

Sustainability Development Program 永續發展計畫

我們所致力的目標 永續發展

Ceres 是穀物女神也是豐收女神的意思

祈求女神對提供給我們原物而辛勤種植的農家們給予庇護

也祝福愛護與熱情支持我們的客戶朋友獲得豐盛富足

這是創立Ceres Coffee 的故事起源

我們將S.D.P 成為我們發展的核心價值

提供好品質是我們應盡的義務與責任

Sustainability Development Program 永續發展計畫–有機栽種之熱帶雨林保護 30 九月, 2007

就是這個雨蛙標誌
咖啡的生產區域是在南北緯度23.5的範圍內
我們慣稱的咖啡帶
這個區域也正好是熱帶雨林區

好品質的咖啡需要遮陽樹
也就是所謂的樹蔭生長—-shade grown
簡單的說
保有原始樹種樣貌 不濫墾 濫伐
能使原始森林保有限狀維持對氣候水土的穩定
又能使咖啡有很好的生長環境